Day 1: SantiagoOur group of friends flew overnight from the US to Santiago, Chile, arriving in the morning. We spent the rest of the day exploring Santiago. Opting to walk around and just see what we saw, we wandered into the Santiago Museum of Contemporary Art. As the workers were on strike, we were able to just walk in, with the option to donate to the museum in lieu of the typical entrance fee. One of the best experiences of the day was climbing up Santa Lucia Hill, a hill in the middle of Santiago with great views over the city. Accommodation: The Princesa Insolente Hostel Santiago Day 2: Travel to Puerto NatalesIn order to access Torres del Paine National Park, we needed to fly to Chilean Patagonia, which meant an in-country flight to Punta Arenas and a bus ride to Puerto Natales. Punta Arenas has the main airport for Chilean Patagonia, and it's located about 3 hours from Puerto Natales. We woke up before early to get our flight down south. When we arrived, we were assured that a bus headed to Puerto Natales would soon arrive. Now the Punta Arenas airport only has three gates, and, as we waited on the curb, we watched our flight crew, airport workers, and other people slowly trickle out of the airport until we were basically the only people at the airport. But, we remained on the curb, confident that some sort of bus would eventually show up. Over an hour later, we hopped on a bus headed to Puerto Natales. It cost approximately $5, and we all promptly reclined our seats for a nap. The bus pulled into Puerto Natales and dropped us near our hostel. That afternoon, we checked in, attended the (free) Erratic Rock info session on trekking in Torres del Paine, rented a few pieces of gear, and shopped for food. That night, we packed our backpacks, prepared to leave on the morning bus for Torres del Paine to begin the W-Circuit. Accommodation: Erratic Rock Hostel **At Erratic Rock, we got a free information session (open to all), ate a delicious home-cooked breakfast, and were able to store our luggage at the hostel for the entire length of our hike. Winner in my book. Day 3: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkOur first day of hiking! We took a 7:30am bus from Puerto Natales to the park. We were able to purchase bus tickets to the park from the hostel, which made the morning easy. The bus stopped to let us pay our entrance fee before dropping us by the catamaran. We wanted to trek west to east, so we had to start by taking the catamaran across Lago Pehoe to the start of our trek. The first day, we hiked to Refugio Gray, past Glacier Gray. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping near Refugio Gray Day 4: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkOur second day of trekking in Torres del Paine National Park involved retracing our steps and continuing on to Camp Italiano. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping at Camp Italiano Day 5: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkThe third day of the W-Circuit involved a trek into the French Valley and then back out to our campsite at Los Cuernos. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping at Los Cuernos Day 6: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkDay number four brought us to the base of the Torres del Paine. We camped at Campamento Torres, in order to wake up early and see the sunrise at the towers. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping at Campamento Torres Day 7: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkOur last day of hiking in the national park, intended to be our opportunity to see the famous Torres del Paine. We hiked out and caught a bus back to Puerto Natales, where we warmed up with hot showers, pizza, and wine. For a rundown of our hike, why we didn't actually see the Torres, and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Erratic Rock Hostel Day 8: Puerto NatalesWe built in a rest day in Puerto Natales, thinking we could either leave a day later and use it to prepare before the hike or rest post-hike. Ultimately, we were so excited to start trekking that we took our rest day after the five day W-Circuit...and, boy, am I glad that we did! Our day in Peurto Natales involved sleeping in, eating a homemade breakfast at the hostel, reading and journaling, doing laundry so that our hiking clothes weren't smelly, wandering around town, grabbing some hot chocolate at Patagonia Dulce, and enjoying a leisurely dinner with views of the water. Accommodation: Erratic Rock Hostel Day 9: Estancia Cerro GuidoAfter securing a rental car, we headed out to Estancia Cerro Guido, a ranch with views of Torres del Paine. Renting a car seems to be the only way to get to the estancia, since it's far away from any other towns. For more about the accommodations, activities, and my thoughts on our stay, refer to my Estancia Cerro Guido blog post. Accommodation: Estancia Cerro Guido Day 10: Estancia Cerro GuidoThis was our full day on the estancia.We wanted to make sure that we spent at least one full day at Estancia Cerro Guido, particularly since it wasn't easy to access. Our morning was occupied with a horseback riding tour of the estancia property, with views of Torres del Paine National Park in the distance, while our afternoon was a relaxing mix of walking, napping, and reading. At night, we enjoyed a leisurely dinner with friends and amazing food. For more about the accommodations, activities, and my thoughts on our stay, refer to my Estancia Cerro Guido blog post. Accommodation: Estancia Cerro Guido Day 11: Travel to Punta ArenasIn order to fly back to the United States, we had to make our way to Punta Arenas for a flight to Santiago. So, we drove the rental car to Punta Arenas, a city just north of the Strait of Magellan, where we returned it and spent the rest of the day exploring the city. We checked out a few shops and met up with a fellow backpacker that we had met in Torres del Paine for dinner. Accommodation: Hotel Boutique Antarctica Day 12: Fly homeAdios, Chile! We flew from Punta Arenas to Santiago, Santiago to the USA.
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The main reason my friends and I planned a trip to Chilean Patagonia was to hike in Torres del Paine National Park, which I discussed in a previous blog post. However, after booking plane tickets to the southernmost tip of Chile, we asked the question, "What else is there to do?" A little internet research turned up the idea of staying at an estancia, a working ranch, and from there we stumbled across Estancia Cerro Guido. Getting ThereFrom Puerto Natales, we rented a car and drove to Estancia Cerro Guido. I think this is really the only option, since the estancia is pretty isolated. The EstanciaEstancia Cerro Guido had beautiful accommodations. We called the beds in the guesthouse "cloud beds", as they were topped with fluffy white comforters that you could sink right into. There was only wi-fi (intermittently) in the main building. I personally enjoyed this because it made it easier to actually disconnect from technology and slow down our pace. Instead of checking email, we read books, went for walks, and enjoyed the surroundings. The estancia is also a working ranch. One night at dinner, we watched a gaucho ride by, rounding up horses. The restaurant is incredible, since the ingredients come from the estancia's own gardens and livestock. Things to DoYou won't find attractions, museums, or shopping near Estancia Cerro Guido. Or even close by. Visiting an estancia is an opportunity to experience a taste of Patagonian life, get away from city life, and relax. Activities around Estancia Cerro Guido include:
The first day, we arrived, checked in, and explored. We met the pet sheep, walked around the garden and the guesthouse, and read for awhile before dinner. The next morning, we opted for a half-day horseback riding tour, an incredible experience as we rode across the open land with the Torres del Paine in sight. Horseback riding at Estancia Cerro Guido is an extra cost beyond the accommodations, and the tours can vary from 2 hours to a full day. The five of us were the only guests on our 4 hour tour, so we had ample opportunity to talk to our guides and we even got to see how fast our horses could go. (Spoiler: It was fast and fun.) That afternoon, we took a walk on the property, napped, and read some more. Some members of our group opted for another horseback ride the following morning before departure, while the rest of us enjoyed the breakfast buffet. Both nights of our stay, the five of us feasted on leisurely, multi-course dinners at the restaurant. How often do you actually sit down with friends and enjoy a dinner that lasts for hours, filled with fresh food and good conversation? I can tell you, I don't do it often enough. We sipped on pisco sour, a South American cocktail, while eating soup, fresh salad, slow-roasted meats, and fish. Also, the restaurant has a huge window that overlooks the Torres, so, as we dined, we got to watch the stunning mountains fade into a night sky. SummaryI would recommend Estancia Cerro Guido for people who love the outdoors and want to actually "get away from it all". People who need attractions to keep them busy or who prefer to stay indoors will likely be disappointed by the remote surroundings and slower pace of life. Yes, our stay was pricey, particularly for graduate students, but we decided that this would be our one splurge on the trip. The lunches and dinners are not included in the room rate (breakfast is included), and they are expensive at about $30 per meal. After hiking and camping for 5 days/4nights in Torres del Paine, it was a nice break. We had really saved money earlier in the trip by eating cheaply, camping, and staying in inexpensive hostels, so I felt like I could splurge on an experience that would be hard to find elsewhere.
I loved our stay at Estancia Cerro Guido. It's hard to say what was my favorite part - the fluffy "cloud beds", the fantastic restaurant with its fresh food, or the free feeling of galloping across wide open land on our horseback ride. In December 2012, four friends and I embarked on a trip to Chilean Patagonia, where we explored Torres del Paine National Park. This national park is awe-inspiringly beautiful. No, that photo above is not from somewhere on the internet. I took it on our hike. Pretty incredible, right? Here are some quotes from my travel journal: "Torres del Paine National Park is unbelievable and beautiful and almost unreal. It is unlike anything I have ever seen." "I was in awe of the scenery. Even the part of the forest where the trees had been burned by fire had a stark, desolate kind of beauty with some new life springing up in the form of grass and flowers. And, no matter which way we turned our heads, there was beautiful scenery - to our right, the mountain peaks, and, to our left, the lake, glacier, and more mountains in the distance." "Everything out here is so other-worldly beautiful that it's easy to see God's hand. Patagonia is beautiful and I am content." This was my first multi-day backpacking trip, and I believe that the "W" circuit in Torres del Paine National Park is the perfect place for someone with any level of experience. First of all, you will be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful place with such diverse scenery. Have I made this point enough? It's beautiful. Another awesome thing about the park is that you can drink any water in the park because it's all fresh glacier run-off, meaning that the water is fresh, cold, clean-tasting, and readily available. You don't have to worry about hanging your food when camping because there are not bears or other scavenging animals in the area. Finally, if camping is not your thing, you can always hike between the refugios with a lighter pack, sleep in a bed every night, and eat meals in the refugio restaurants. We went the cheaper route by carrying our own camping equipment and food, but I really enjoyed camping in the park each night and the sense of camaraderie among the backpackers at campsites. The "W" RouteDay 1 Hiking Distance: 11 km From the bus drop-off, we had to take a ferry across Lago Pehoe before we could start hiking. I was taking pictures like crazy from the ferry, but I had no idea that even more spectacular scenery awaited me on our 5-day hike. The ferry dropped us off by Refugio Paine Grande, and we set off on our hike. Our destination was the Refugio Gray campsite. We were treated to stunning views of Lago Gray and Glacier Gray as we hiked. I was in awe the entire time, particularly at the intense blue color of the water contrasted with the dark mountains rising behind it. Unfortunately, the picture below doesn't portray the vibrant color of the water. We camped near Refugio Gray. From the refugio and campsite, there is a short trail that leads to a glacier overlook. Our group decided to take the short walk and was rewarded with views over Glacier Gray. At the campsite, there was a shelter with tables that campers could use to cook. Even though we were blessed with beautiful weather, I could see the shelter being useful in high winds and during rainstorms. On the night we camped, the bugs swarmed around our tents, so we turned in early, partially to escape the bugs and partially because we were exhausted from the day's hike. Day 2 Hiking Distance: 18.6 km The second day's section of the "W" required us to retrace our steps back to Refugio Paine Grande and on to Camp Italiano. It might seem annoying to retrace the steps that you hiked yesterday, but, trust me, looking at those views never gets old. Plus, part of the hike is through new terrain. This isn't a problem if you do the longer "O" Circuit, where the loop is completed, so there is no retracing of your steps. The views of Paine Grande and other mountains made for excellent hiking scenery, but the best part of the day actually came at the end. When our feet were throbbing and our shoulders were aching and all we wanted was to arrive at the campsite, we came to a wooden bridge over a river. Only two people were allowed to cross the bridge at a time, so the rest of us were unaware of the treat that awaited us until we reached the middle of the bridge. I kept thinking, "Why is everyone stopping to take pictures in the middle of this bridge?" Then, I reached the middle and was rewarded with a spectacular mountain view - the one in the picture at the top of this post - and that gave all of us renewed energy at the end of a long day, Day 3 Hiking Distance: 20.5 km We started the day by taking our instant coffee from the campsite down to the river with the beautiful mountain view that you see at the top of this post. Let me tell you, instant coffee has never tasted so good as it did with fresh air, beautiful views, and the sound of rushing water nearby. Today's hike was up into the Valle Frances, the middle portion of the "W", meaning we would hike into the valley and then retrace our steps to continue on the next branch of the route. Which meant that we could leave our packs at the campsite and pick them up when we came back through! After carrying our big backpacks, carrying just water and a snack was heavenly! The Valle Frances was incredible. The hike in ended on top of a big rock in the middle of the valley, with snow capped mountains rising up around us in a 360 degree panorama. After taking it in and heading back to our campsite, we grabbed our packs and continued on to camp at Los Cuernos. On the way, we walked on the shore of a lake, taking a quick break in the sunshine on the beach. I loved the campsite at Los Cuernos because our tents were on platforms with views of the lake and mountains. I took my boots off of my aching feet and ate dinner with my legs hanging over the edge of the platform, soaking up the view. Day 4 Hiking distance: 20 km Today's hiking took us through rolling hills covered in green foliage, past bright blue lakes, and by wild horses grazing in the meadows. We commented that it reminded us of Scotland, despite nobody having been to Scotland at that point. But, hey, pictures. Much of the hike was uphill so it was hard on my feet and knees. Toward the end of our hiking for the day, we crossed the river pictured below, and began a climb upward to Campamento Torres. Luckily, we were able to stop at Refugio Chileno before the last part of the trail to grab a quick snack and rest for a few minutes. Our plan was to camp at Campamento Torres, wake up before sunrise, and complete the hour-long climb to the Torres lookout just in time to see the sunrise over the Torres with some breakfast. Day 5 Hiking distance: 10 km (approximately) As you may notice, I have no pictures of the actual Torres, the most famous landmark in Torres del Paine National Park. The reason for the lack of photo evidence is that, despite us waking up at 3:45am and climbing up to Mirador Torres, we were completely engulfed in a blizzard. Snow was falling heavily, our gloves and hats got soaked from the snow, and visibility was extremely low. We couldn't even see the outline of the Torres after the sun rose. Eventually, we had to accept the fact that we were cold, wet, and going to leave without seeing the Torres. It is important to note that the climb to the Mirador Torres is very steep and quite challenging. Headlamps are crucial if you are trying to climb before sunrise, particularly in the areas where you have to scramble over rocks and boulders. I hear the view at the top is worth it. I hope to experience it another time in my life! By the time we descended to camp, our group was freezing, soaked, and ready to be done. We threw our gear into our bags (to be sorted and dried later at our hostel) and practically ran down the trail to Hosteria Las Torres, where we changed into warm, dry clothes, scarfed down an amazing breakfast buffet, and waited for the bus to Puerto Natales in the cozy lobby. I would say that I was a little disappointed that we didn't get to see the Torres, but I wasn't crushed. I felt that so many scenic and impressive views occurred in the first 3 days of our trek - Glacier Gray, Paine Grande, Los Cuernos, Valle Frances - and I was incredibly grateful that we had perfect weather for those days. We missed one landmark but got to enjoy so many others throughout the W Circuit that I can't say the blizzard ruined our trek. Some people propose going the reverse direction, starting with the Torres and ending with Glacier Gray and the catamaran. I was happy with the route we took, and I think that either direction will give you opportunities for beautiful memories. Remember, there's no guarantee for nice weather on any given day! Plus, we actually got to see the Torres from the estancia we stayed at following our hike. They weren't as close as they would have been from Mirador Torres, but they were still majestic in the distance. TipsI highly recommend going to the free Erratic Rock information session in Puerto Natales before you head to the park. It happens every afternoon, and the sessions are given by people who have hiked and guided in the park. Like I mentioned above, some people choose to hike west to east and others choose east to west. You don't have to follow their recommendations, but the Erratic Rock information session is full of great tips on logistics and gear. It's always nice to hear from people who have done the route before. Besides, it's free! What's better than that?
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AuthorMy name is Alyssa Good and I have a passion for travel, adventure, culture, and new experiences! I focus on budget friendly travel, trip planning resources, and seeking out new experiences. Archives
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