To continue my series of blog posts about our trip to Chiapas, Mexico, I want to focus on our day trip to the Sumidero Canyon. The canyon is part of the Parque Nacional Cañón del Sumidero, a designated national park in Chiapas and the second most visited site in the state. The canyon itself is incredibly impressive, with sheer canyon walls towering a thousand feet above the boats on both sides. Your boat motors past crocodiles sunning themselves on the side of the river and into caves hollowed out of the cliffs. We paid 300 pesos (about $17) per person for a tour from San Cristobal de las Casas. The price included transportation to and from the canyon, the 2-3 hour boat ride, and a stop in the town of Chiapa del Corzo. I would comment on the tour operator, except it wasn't really a tour. It was more like transportation organization. The only thing that the "tour company" did was pick us up and drop us off, not even providing information as we drove. The real tour was provided by the boat operators in the Canyon. They drove the boat and spoke about the canyon, rock formations, and wildlife. The guides slowed down the boat to show us features of the canyon, such as the Cueva de Colores, which is a small cave that is named for the minerals that color the walls. Our tour was entirely in Spanish. Before we went to Sumidero Canyon, I read some online posts about the high levels of pollution in the canyon, including how much was visible to those on tour boats. While we were there, I noticed a few stray plastic bottles, floating in the river, but there was nothing on the riverbanks or in the plants. I took this as a positive sign and hope that it is the result of improved efforts to keep the national park clean and beautiful. The only bad news from the excursion is that I don't have a ton of photos because I was throwing up over the side of the boat. In one of those things that "just happens sometimes" when you travel, I was super sick the day we went to Sumidero Canyon. I woke up in San Cristobal with an upset stomach - from what, I haven't discerned. Altitude? Food? Mexican water somehow finding it's way into my body? The upset stomach was exacerbated by my motion sickness in the van to the canyon. I am basically always motion sick on moving vehicles. Sigh. Sometimes my body cannot keep up with my adventurous spirit. The motion sickness usually goes away when I get out of the car and I had taken anti-motion-sickness medicine (Dramamine, this girl's best friend), so I got on the boat. We pulled up near the first crocodile, I puked, and then I felt somewhat better. I was actually able to admire some of the canyon afterward. I didn't feel well enough to ask my cousin for an English translation, so I tuned out the guide and just enjoyed the wind in my face and the beautiful scenery. Tips for the Sumidero Canyon
Final ThoughtsThe Sumidero Canyon is absolutely worth a visit when you are in Chiapas. If, like me, you love nature and boat rides, then you will love this activity. Despite feeling miserable, I found the canyon walls beautiful. There are lookouts above the canyon for an overhead view, but there is something special about being down on the river with the cliffs rising around you. It's a feeling of being small compared with the awesome power of nature. And, to me, that is definitely worth the price! Read more about our Chiapas trip with my blog post about San Cristobal de las Casas and the Mayan Villages of San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantan!
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What comes to mind when you think of Mexico? Sandy beaches? Tropical drinks? Handmade tortillas? Over Easter weekend, we traveled to Mexico and only experienced one of those....which was a great thing! My prior experience with Mexico was limited to resorts in the Yucatan, but, when my cousins suggested that we meet up with them in the state of Chiapas, we jumped at the chance! Though the beaches are beautiful, it was great to see a different facet of the country and experience some of the culture. We spent a long weekend in San Cristobal de las Casas, a mountain town located at 7200 ft. The state of Chiapas is located in the southwest of Mexico, bordering Guatemala. It is a mountainous region known for coffee growing and Mayan heritage, meaning that there is excellent coffee to try, Mayan ruins to explore, and a fantastic mix of Mexican and Mayan influence. San Cristobal is a colonial city with a cool, laid-back vibe and BEAUTIFUL scenery. I immediately loved the colorful buildings and the mountain views. If you are concerned about the safety of traveling to Mexico, note that there is no travel advisory for the state of Chiapas. I cannot emphasize this enough - I never felt unsafe in San Cristobal or Chiapas. Just follow common sense rules of travel and you should be fine. Getting ThereI can't lie - getting to San Cristobal was a process. We drove from Austin to San Antonio for our flight, since flights were significantly cheaper from San Antonio. We flew on Interjet, a Mexican low-cost airline that I highly recommend. Interjet flies to numerous locations in Mexico as well as limited international locations, including some US cities. On American carriers, we are accustomed to jamming as many people as possible on an airplane, bumping our knees on the seat in front of us and climbing over our neighbor's lap to get to the bathroom. Interjet reminded me of the "good old days" with plenty of leg room. Now, I am short so legroom doesn't affect me much, but my husband really appreciated it. All of our Interjet flights had friendly flight attendants and free chips as snacks. I can't remember the last time I got a snack on a flight operated by a US carrier. Overall, a pleasant experience, despite one delay out of four total flights. We flew San Antonio-Mexico City-Tuxtla Gutierrez. Tuxtla is the main airport for Chiapas, and, when you land, you have to catch a bus to San Cristobal de las Casas. It is only about 37 miles, but it's 37 miles on winding, mountainous roads, so it takes a little over an hour to climb the 5500 ft to San Cristobal. At the Tuxtla airport, we bought tickets on an OCC shuttle to San Cristobal for 210 pesos ($12) each. Buying bus tickets was simple, as the ticket counter was right by the baggage claim. The shuttle drops off at the OCC bus terminal in San Cristobal. From the bus station, we took a cab for 30 ($1.73) pesos to our accommodations. Exploring the City
Final ThoughtsI've read some other travel blogs that complain about the city being over-run by American hippies and expats rather than an authentic experience. I did not have this experience at all. We felt like the majority of the travelers roaming the city on Easter weekend were Mexican families. True, we saw some of the dreadlocks and granola bunch, but, at least when we visited, it was by no means a majority. Something that may have contributed to this was staying in an Airbnb rather than a hostel. By doing this, we encountered neighborhood inhabitants out for a stroll rather than backpackers looking for a place to crash.
Chiapas has the highest poverty rate in Mexico - over 70% of the residents live in poverty. As you walk the streets, you will be approached by many women and children selling handicrafts or begging. It is very difficult to say "No, gracias" to the small children. Usually their wares are inexpensive, though I have to admit that they all start to look the same. The women and teenage girls carry large piles of wool scarves/shawls that all have similar patterns, and many of the little children sell bracelets and small purses. San Cristobal de las Casas has a lot of character! I loved the colonial buildings, the bright colors, and the vibrancy of the city. We spent three days eating well, relaxing with local coffee, learning about Mayan culture, enjoying mountain views, and stumbling across new sights at every turn. For me, it was a new side of this diverse country. I would love to continue exploring Mexico's colonial cities in the future. Check back for more blog posts about our boat ride in the Sumidero Canyon, Easter Sunday in Mayan Villages, budget tips for travel to San Cristobal, and details about our itinerary! I love planning travel. I'm energized by the possibilities of new places, new discoveries, and new cultures. I get excited by piecing together transportation options and finding new ways to use my airline points. It's like a puzzle to me, so, when I'm looking for something to entertain me, I plan hypothetical trips, thinking maybe someday I might need a 6-week itinerary to Peru and Bolivia or details for a 10-day trek in Alaska. I do this so often that I had to stop and think when a friend recently asked me, "How do you plan for a trip?" She wanted to go on a trip with her siblings, a sister and brother, and wanted to keep it budget friendly. From there, she wasn't sure where to look next for locations, deals, and activities. I think that a big trip can seem overwhelming when there are so many details to arrange and things to decide. Plus, you feel like it's a big expense so you don't want to screw it up! This inquiry presented the perfect opportunity to blog about some of my trip planning techniques and favorite sites. Here's how I plan for travel! Throughout this post, I will use our 3-week summer trip to Europe as an example. 1. Determine your limiting factor(s)Pretty much everyone has at least one limiting factor on travel plans. Your limiting factors will help you pick a place to travel. These are some of the most common:
You might be looking at the list and thinking, "ALL of those are my limiting factors." You very well might have more than one! Once you determine your limiting factors, you will have a better idea of where you can go. When I was planning our summer trip, all of the mentioned limiting factors were at play:
These limiting factors led us to choose a trip to Europe, primarily Eastern Europe, which is cheaper for travelers than Western Europe. 2. What Kind of Traveler Are You?Some people prefer to see a lot when traveling. Some would rather lay on the beach. Some people want to try new cuisines. Others still want to experience the great outdoors through active travel. Many people like a mix of these things. What do you want out of this particular trip? Are you stressed at work? You might need a low-key getaway. Hate feeling constantly connected? Find somewhere off-the-grid. Love hustle and bustle? Look into big cities with lots to do. Answering these questions for yourself will help determine specifics of where to go. Brett and I love the outdoors, trying new food and drink, and immersing ourselves in the culture of a place. We wanted to be active on our travel and move between multiple cities. This gave me a framework for what to plan: multiple countries in Europe and accessible ground transportation (trains, buses) to move around easily. My favorite websites when looking into destinations are Wikitravel, Rough Guides, and Nomadic Matt's Travel Guides. Type in a city or country of interest on Wikitravel and get a general sense of things to do, how to get there, and the safety/security of a travel destination. My absolute favorite part of the Rough Guides website is the "Things Not to Miss" for each country, a slideshow of the highlights in beautiful pictures. Check out this example of "Things Not to Miss" for Slovenia. Nomadic Matt has amazing tips on budgeting and how much you should expect to spend in a country. 3. Find Your AirfareStart with airfare because your arrival and departure determines the number of nights you need for accommodation, as well as the amount of time you have for exploration and fun. It's also likely to be one of the biggest chunks of your budget, unless you are using rewards points to book airfare. My favorite websites to use when searching for flights are the ITA Matrix by Google and Airfare Watchdog. You can't book directly from the ITA Matrix but you can compare various airlines, write down the flight numbers, and search for those cheap flights on the airline website. Tips for affordable airfare
4. Research Other TransportationIf you're planning to stay in one place for the duration of your travels, skip this step! Transportation within or between countries determines a lot about your itinerary. Flying between cities will save you time but will cost more. Trains and buses are affordable but take time. Again, look at your limiting factors! Do you need to save time or money? In planning for Europe this summer, Brett and I had settled on Eastern Europe for budgetary reasons. But, Brett really wanted to try Trappist beer in Belgium. For the sake of time, I decided we would have to fly between Belgium and Eastern Europe, so I turned to the RyanAir Interactive Route Map to find out where they flew from Brussels. I discovered cheap flights between Brussels Charleroi Airport and Budapest. This saved us time and, actually, money because the flights were priced so low compared with train travel. From there, I looked at the rail networks in Europe - where could we travel easily from Budapest? Ultimately, I picked Slovenia and Croatia. Transportation pulled together the details of our itinerary, allowing me to see how much transport time we needed between places and how much time we could spend in each city. My favorite website for researching train travel is The Man in Seat 61. This guy is amazing. He has guides for train travel across the world. Prior to reading his website, I assumed I would have to purchase Eurail passes to travel between Budapest, Slovenia, and Croatia, which would have cost us over $300 for two travelers. Using The Man in Seat 61's tips, I discovered that there is a train between Budapest and Ljubljana, Slovenia for 19 Euros per person. He detailed how to book these cheap fares and whether it was better to book in advance or buy tickets at the station. With these tips, I have pieced together train and bus routes around Eastern Europe for about $160 total - 50% of the cost for Eurail passes! For bus travel, google "bus between [city A] and [city B]". Travel forums and blogs are helpful for this. I typically look at forums and blogs as a starting point. People will share comments like "We took a bus using [company X]. It cost this much". Then, I google that bus company to look at prices and schedules. You might not be able to book the ground transportation now or even before you go, but it's a good idea to research how long transport will take in order to determine your itinerary and book accommodation. In your research, you should be able to find out whether you can book ahead or buy your ticket in person at the train station. 5. Make a working itineraryIt's not complete yet but you need a working itinerary so you can plan for accommodation Some people don't like to plan. If you want to just buy a train pass, hop on the train, and find accommodation when you get to each place, go for it! I like to have accommodation and know how long I will be in each city, but I enjoy scheduling tours and activities when I arrive, based on the recommendations of locals. To make a working itinerary, list the dates of travel and start filling in the things you know from researching transportation. It might look like this: May 28 - Fly out of Austin, TX (overnight) May 29 - Arrive in Brussels, Belgium (midday) May 30 - May 31 - June 1 - June 2 - Fly Brussels to Budapest June 3 - You should have blank spaces by some of the days! This allows you to fill in what you will be doing when you're not traveling between cities, which might look like this: May 28 - Fly out of Austin, TX May 29 - Arrive in Brussels, Belgium (midday), train to Ghent May 30 - Ghent May 31 - Ghent June 1 - Ghent June 2 - Fly Brussels to Budapest June 3 - Budapest Since it's a working itinerary, you can move things around and change ideas. You can also add in ideas for day-trips or excursions if you would like. By doing this, you will be able to determine how long you will be in each city, so you can book accommodation! 6. Book AccommodationYou know where you're going and how long you'll be in each place! Yippee! Now you need a place to stay. Here are some budget-friendly options: Airbnb My new go-to spot for budget accommodation is Airbnb. Since Brett and I got married, I have realized that those hostel dorm prices don't look quite as low when doubled, since they are listed per person per night. Plus, there is no privacy for a married couple in a 14 bed dorm. I've realized by doing a price comparison that I can often find an AirBnB room or apartment that works out to be cheaper than a hostel for two and offers more privacy and flexibility with cooking and coming/going. Hostels Hostels offer a safe and social space for travelers to interact. The cheapest option is typically a large dorm. Most hostels offer mixed dorms as well as same-sex dorm rooms. When we travelled to Ireland, my friend and I stayed in a female dorm in Dublin and a private room in Galway because the private room was equal in price to a dorm. In addition to being a great place to interact with fellow travelers, hostels offer a variety of amenities, from breakfast to free wifi to luggage storage. Luggage storage can be a huge help if you have to check out but want to continue sightseeing before your flight or train. When hiking in Chilean Patagonia, our hostel stored our extra luggage for the entire 5 day, 4 night trek. My favorite website to find and compare hostels is HostelWorld. Camping If you are going on an outdoorsy trip or a trek, camping might be your only option. Or you might wan to camp in order to save even more money. Check out these beautiful campsites around the world. Of course, you will need to have or purchase camping gear and carry it with you as you travel. Unusual Accommodations Did you know you can work on an organic farm in exchange for accommodation? The organization is called WWOOF, World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms. You can also stay in monasteries around the world fairly cheaply. 7. Fun Fun Fun!You know where you're going, how you're getting there, and where you're staying. Now it's time for the fun part! You can either sit back, relax, and wait for your trip, or you can plan things you want to see and do when you get there! Start googling!
For our European trip, I wanted to leave plenty of time for unstructured exploration because I love the surprises you can find while wandering around a city. However, I looked up how to get to the Trappist brewery in Belgium, since that was the one thing Brett requested that we do. I also looked into allergy friendly restaurants in each city because I am allergic to gluten and Brett is allergic to dairy. It was important to me to find some allergy-friendly restaurants beforehand. While doing that research, I found these travel cards that explain Celiac Disease in various languages. The tips and helpful hints available on the internet these days are truly amazing. Happy travel planning, everyone! Ok, fine. I admit it...I watch The Bachelor. Basically, one summer, sweating in 100+ degree heat without an air conditioner, I accepted a friend's invitation to spend the evening at her air conditioned apartment. When I got there, I discovered a Bachelor viewing party. Then, I had to keep watching to see if the runner-up from that season found love, and then see what happened to my favorite contestant from the next season. And, so on. I do love seeing the exciting destinations that the groups visit around the world. During the most recent week of Season 14, I was excited to see that Ben and the ladies on the group date went swimming with pigs in The Bahamas. This was so exciting to me because I had done the exact same thing four years earlier! The episode showed aggressive pigs and awkward silences, but what was it really like to swim with pigs in The Bahamas? Getting ThereThe Exumas are a chain of islands in The Bahamas. We were staying on Staniel Cay, one island in The Exumas, while the pigs live on Big Major Cay, an uninhabited island in The Exumas. To get to Big Major, we had to island-hop by boat, and there is a little bay where boats can pull in to see the pigs. We were staying at someone's private house, so we had a motor boat at our disposal. However, many accommodations, such as Staniel Cay Yacht Club, offer use of boats and kayaks to guests that purchase vacation packages. The ExperienceFirst of all, these pigs FOR SURE know what's up. When they see boats pull into the bay, they immediately swim over. The pigs have learned that boats mean food for them. Luckily, we had a pig veteran with us, so she knew to bring snacks for feeding the pigs. We had veggies and some lunchmeat (Don't worry! Nothing pig-based) . We initially fed them from the boat, but eventually we ventured into the water and made our way to the beach. The water around us was a clear, turquoise blue, perfect for swimming and wading. On the island, there were piglets running around, which was adorable!
Were the pigs really as aggressive as shown on TV? Actually, yes! Swimming with the pigs is not dangerous by any means, but the pigs are determined to get whatever food they can. They continually approach and bump people to ask for more snacks. One of my friends actually got bit in the butt by one of the pigs on the island! We spent part of the day on Big Major Island, feeding the pigs, swimming in the water, having some drinks, and walking the beach. Then, we motored to a sandbar and to another island to eat. Having a boat in The Exumas is amazing because it gives travelers the freedom to explore the whole region. You can sail to another resort or yacht club, park your boat at the dock, and enjoy a meal. You can go snorkeling at Thunderball Grotto, site of filming for the James Bond film Thunderball. You can explore other beaches or try new water sports. I was glad we included swimming with the pigs on our Bahamas vacation because it was unlike any other experience I have had. Without having seen it on TV or hearing about it from a friend, I never would have imagined that there was an island with swimming pigs somewhere in the world! JanuaryNashville, Tennessee MarchPortland, Oregon AprilGruene, Texas JuneBurlington, Vermont New York City, New York JulyBurlington, The Long Trail, & Woodstock, Vermont AugustQuebec City, Quebec Cincinnati, Ohio SeptemberAtlanta, Georgia DecemberDallas, Texas Up Next in 2016As we enter this new year, I'm looking forward to travels to Mexico, (possibly) San Diego, London, Belgium, Croatia, Slovenia, Budapest, Nepal, and (potentially) Asheville. I will also be moving back to Nashville, Tennessee, so it will be a action packed, exciting year. Stay tuned!
I have to admit - I don't love Dallas. Every time I visit, I am overwhelmed by the sprawling size and the amount of concrete interstates criss-crossing around the city.Yet, my in-laws live just outside the city, so I decided to capitalize on the opportunity to explore a bit. Recently, Brett and I spent a very pleasant day exploring various parts of Dallas. Our exploration took us from one side of the city to the other, starting with the revitalized arts district in Oak Cliff. Bishop Arts District, Oak CliffI had always heard about the dangers of Oak Cliff, but I was unaware that north Oak Cliff is undergoing a revitalization, thanks to the Bishop Arts District. The Bishop Arts District is a neighborhood with trendy boutiques, restaurants, art galleries, and shops. Brett and I sought out this area because, of course, we researched third-wave coffee shops in Dallas. This search led us to Davis Street Espresso, a trendy coffee shop with Oak Cliff Coffee Roasters onsite. Brett and I each got a pour over, and it was a high quality cup of coffee. The interior of Davis Street Espresso was in-your-face cool, with old brick walls, wood furnishings, and a large commercial roaster visible. Oh, and, the mason jar pictured above? That's one of their "to-go" cups. Davis Street Espresso doesn't use paper cups, so, if you want your coffee to-go, either bring your own mug or pay a $2 deposit for a mason jar to-go mug. Bring back the mug, get your $2 back. Somehow, the baristas messed up our order, so they actually gave us the to-go jars for free with a casual "try to reuse them" directed at us on the way out. Hipster to-go jars in hand, we meandered down the block, stopping when a shop grabbed our interest. Boy, did Joy Macarons grab our interest! French macarons are delicious AND gluten-free, meaning they are a dessert that this gluten-challenged, dairy-challenged couple can enjoy together. Joy Macarons had this adorable macaron tree decorating their shop. We sampled some seasonal flavors, including Mexican Hot Chocolate and Peppermint Creme, as well as some mainstays, like Violet and Black Currant. When we stopped in Joy Macarons, the owner, Liz, was serving customers, so we chatted with her for a bit. She truly embodied the name of the store, exuding joy as she discussed her business. Speaking of joy, these macarons were unbelievably good! I mean it. When I think back on this day of exploring Dallas, I smile longingly at the thought of our macaron snack. On the same block as Joy Macarons was Spinster Records, a record shop with shelves of new and used vinyls. Judging by the posters, the shop also hosts music events and in-store performances. We wandered in and around the shelves, stopping to ask the clerk how long the store had been there. She sighed and began with, "Oh..." in the way that makes you think that the shop has been around so long that she could barely recall its age. She continued with, "About a year and a half." Ok, not exactly a long-standing institution, but a fun stop for music lovers nonetheless. Our final stop on the block that contained Davis Street Espresso and Joy Macarons was Glass Optical. We basically went in the shop because there was a eucalyptus garland adorning the windows and it smelled SO good. Oh, and I need some new glasses. When we stepped inside, I was blown away by the interior, with it's metal ceiling, industrial walls, minimalistic furnishings, and vintage feel. Then, I noticed this neon quote on the wall - from The Great Gatsby! If you ever need to win me over, plaster a classic literary quote on the wall. I know that not everyone would want to stop in an eyewear shop, but I think this store is the perfect example of the mix of vintage and revitalization in the neighborhood. State & AllenWe had agreed to meet up with some friends for lunch and ended up choosing State & Allen Kitchen + Bar at the recommendation of another friend. It was a 70 degree December day, so the restaurant was open to the outside. I ordered The Lounge Salad, a dish with greens, tomatoes, egg, avocado, and asparagus, adding chicken to the top. Perot Museum of Nature and ScienceWhen I told my mom that we were going to the Perot Museum, she said, "That sounds....interesting..." because it sounds like a museum about Ross Perot. In fact, the Perot Museum of Nature and Science is full of hands-on science exhibits about our world past, present, and future.I always love museums like this because there is so much to learn about the world! We started at the top floor and worked our way down, beginning with Expanding Universe hall, focused on outer space. We continued through exhibits with fossils, dinosaur skeletons, gigantic gems and minerals, an earthquake simulator, engineering innovations, and cross-sections from the human body. You could spend anywhere from a couple of hours to a whole day at the Perot Museum, if you choose to take your time or expand your admission to include traveling exhibitions and/or a film. *Hint: if you are an educator from Texas or a neighboring state, you can gain free admission to the museum. SMU CampusFinally, we walked about the campus of SMU, Southern Methodist University, which I had associated with the ESPN 30 for 30 film Pony Excess. SMU has a beautiful campus. The grounds are immaculate and all of the buildings are red brick with ornate columns. None of the students were there since it was only a couple days before Christmas, but it was such a beautiful day that we wandered through the grounds and into a few buildings. After winding our way through the city, I admit that I enjoyed myself in Dallas! There were even a few things that I wanted to experience that we did not have time to do, including riding the free trolley between uptown and downtown. I love exploring cities on public transportation, I love trolleys, and I love free things! I also want to visit The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza, where the JFK assassination took place. It was such a big moment in American history and something that is completely unique to the city of Dallas. Luckily, I will have more opportunities to explore Dallas when we visit Brett's family, so I can add these to my "Places to Visit" list for next time!
Day 1: SantiagoOur group of friends flew overnight from the US to Santiago, Chile, arriving in the morning. We spent the rest of the day exploring Santiago. Opting to walk around and just see what we saw, we wandered into the Santiago Museum of Contemporary Art. As the workers were on strike, we were able to just walk in, with the option to donate to the museum in lieu of the typical entrance fee. One of the best experiences of the day was climbing up Santa Lucia Hill, a hill in the middle of Santiago with great views over the city. Accommodation: The Princesa Insolente Hostel Santiago Day 2: Travel to Puerto NatalesIn order to access Torres del Paine National Park, we needed to fly to Chilean Patagonia, which meant an in-country flight to Punta Arenas and a bus ride to Puerto Natales. Punta Arenas has the main airport for Chilean Patagonia, and it's located about 3 hours from Puerto Natales. We woke up before early to get our flight down south. When we arrived, we were assured that a bus headed to Puerto Natales would soon arrive. Now the Punta Arenas airport only has three gates, and, as we waited on the curb, we watched our flight crew, airport workers, and other people slowly trickle out of the airport until we were basically the only people at the airport. But, we remained on the curb, confident that some sort of bus would eventually show up. Over an hour later, we hopped on a bus headed to Puerto Natales. It cost approximately $5, and we all promptly reclined our seats for a nap. The bus pulled into Puerto Natales and dropped us near our hostel. That afternoon, we checked in, attended the (free) Erratic Rock info session on trekking in Torres del Paine, rented a few pieces of gear, and shopped for food. That night, we packed our backpacks, prepared to leave on the morning bus for Torres del Paine to begin the W-Circuit. Accommodation: Erratic Rock Hostel **At Erratic Rock, we got a free information session (open to all), ate a delicious home-cooked breakfast, and were able to store our luggage at the hostel for the entire length of our hike. Winner in my book. Day 3: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkOur first day of hiking! We took a 7:30am bus from Puerto Natales to the park. We were able to purchase bus tickets to the park from the hostel, which made the morning easy. The bus stopped to let us pay our entrance fee before dropping us by the catamaran. We wanted to trek west to east, so we had to start by taking the catamaran across Lago Pehoe to the start of our trek. The first day, we hiked to Refugio Gray, past Glacier Gray. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping near Refugio Gray Day 4: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkOur second day of trekking in Torres del Paine National Park involved retracing our steps and continuing on to Camp Italiano. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping at Camp Italiano Day 5: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkThe third day of the W-Circuit involved a trek into the French Valley and then back out to our campsite at Los Cuernos. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping at Los Cuernos Day 6: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkDay number four brought us to the base of the Torres del Paine. We camped at Campamento Torres, in order to wake up early and see the sunrise at the towers. For a rundown of our hike and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Camping at Campamento Torres Day 7: W-Circuit, Torres del Paine National ParkOur last day of hiking in the national park, intended to be our opportunity to see the famous Torres del Paine. We hiked out and caught a bus back to Puerto Natales, where we warmed up with hot showers, pizza, and wine. For a rundown of our hike, why we didn't actually see the Torres, and the distances, see my Hiking Torres del Paine National Park post. Accommodation: Erratic Rock Hostel Day 8: Puerto NatalesWe built in a rest day in Puerto Natales, thinking we could either leave a day later and use it to prepare before the hike or rest post-hike. Ultimately, we were so excited to start trekking that we took our rest day after the five day W-Circuit...and, boy, am I glad that we did! Our day in Peurto Natales involved sleeping in, eating a homemade breakfast at the hostel, reading and journaling, doing laundry so that our hiking clothes weren't smelly, wandering around town, grabbing some hot chocolate at Patagonia Dulce, and enjoying a leisurely dinner with views of the water. Accommodation: Erratic Rock Hostel Day 9: Estancia Cerro GuidoAfter securing a rental car, we headed out to Estancia Cerro Guido, a ranch with views of Torres del Paine. Renting a car seems to be the only way to get to the estancia, since it's far away from any other towns. For more about the accommodations, activities, and my thoughts on our stay, refer to my Estancia Cerro Guido blog post. Accommodation: Estancia Cerro Guido Day 10: Estancia Cerro GuidoThis was our full day on the estancia.We wanted to make sure that we spent at least one full day at Estancia Cerro Guido, particularly since it wasn't easy to access. Our morning was occupied with a horseback riding tour of the estancia property, with views of Torres del Paine National Park in the distance, while our afternoon was a relaxing mix of walking, napping, and reading. At night, we enjoyed a leisurely dinner with friends and amazing food. For more about the accommodations, activities, and my thoughts on our stay, refer to my Estancia Cerro Guido blog post. Accommodation: Estancia Cerro Guido Day 11: Travel to Punta ArenasIn order to fly back to the United States, we had to make our way to Punta Arenas for a flight to Santiago. So, we drove the rental car to Punta Arenas, a city just north of the Strait of Magellan, where we returned it and spent the rest of the day exploring the city. We checked out a few shops and met up with a fellow backpacker that we had met in Torres del Paine for dinner. Accommodation: Hotel Boutique Antarctica Day 12: Fly homeAdios, Chile! We flew from Punta Arenas to Santiago, Santiago to the USA. Before leaving Vermont, Brett and I decided we had to visit Quebec City. We had enjoyed Montreal but weren't as impressed as we had expected, mainly because it was so similar to many big US cities. However, we heard that Quebec City had a more European, historic, francophone flair and were eager to experience it for ourselves. We conveniently had a bedandbreakfast.com gift card. So, we looked up B&Bs that accepted the gift cards and planned a weekend getaway in Quebec City. Old QuebecThe place that all the tourists visit in Quebec City is Vieux Quebec, or Old Quebec, the historic, walled city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. So, Brett and I decided to explore VIeux Quebec as well. The streets were lined with adorable stone buildings and sidewalk cafes. Some of the shops in Old Quebec were more tourist-oriented, but Brett and I enjoyed walking through the streets, grabbing snacks, and looking at the various historic buildings. Sometimes, even though you know you're surrounded by tourists, it's fun to feel transported to a different time and place. Compared with Montreal, which felt more similar to large American cities, Quebec felt more like being in another country. Walking around the walled part of Old Quebec reminded me of being in a European city. We stumbled into a church-turned-library, and we climbed up the old wall, which provided a view of the old town. We wandered through the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, a beautiful and historic hotel on the top of the hill in Old Quebec, too luxurious for our budget but fun to see nonetheless. CantookOf course, Brett and I couldn't visit a new city without finding a coffee shop to try. We had looked up La Brulerie Cafe de Quebec, which had changed its name to Cantook Micro-Torrefaction literally days before we arrived. With the name change, we got a little lost, but ultimately found the small, cozy, wood-paneled shop in Old Quebec. It was on an adorable street of shops and restaurants though situated outside the historic city walls. Roasted coffee beans lined the wall behind the counter and big coffee roaster stood partially hidden in a back room. We ordered a Chemex for two and thoroughly enjoyed the coffee, as evidenced by the fact that we returned for coffee two more times on our trip (and bought a mug). Our experience at Cantook Micro-Torrefaction was a great example of why I love to visit coffee shops on our trips. As we traveled around the city, we had noticed buildings labeled CEGEP, and neither Brett nor I had any idea what CEGEP was. So, we started chatting with the baristas and asked them. They explained that CEGEP is part of the educational system, unique to Quebec, and is a college that students attend between high school and university. I enjoyed drinking my coffee while chatting with the baristas and learning more about the local customs and culture. Coffee shops in a city are a great way to explore the vibe of a city and interact with people who live and work in that place. Samuel-De Champlain PromenadeOn our way out of town, Brett and I drove along the St. Lawrence River and stopped for a lunch on the Samuel-de Champlain Promenade, a path that follows the river. All along the promenade, people were running, walking, biking, and taking advantage of this scenic path. On the pier is a cafe, an overlook, and a number of tables. We ordered food, then sat outside to enjoy the sunshine and views of the river. Auberge AmerikThe Bed and Breakfast that we found for our stay in Quebec was called Auberge Amerik, which we chose for the price and the fact that they accepted bedandbreakfast.com gift cards. The main pro of the B&B for us was the price, especially when compared with staying in a hotel closer to the old city. It wasn't as cheap as some hostels, but we were able to use our gift card, have money left over, and have a room to ourselves. The staff members that greeted us were extremely friendly and helpful, and our room was cute. However, the ceiling in our room had a leak, which caused a dripping sound all night that we tried to mask with towels on the floor. There was a gelato stand and a few restaurants within walking distance from Auberge Amerik. We definitely were not in a tourist bubble. The location made us feel like we were staying among people who actually lived and worked in Quebec City. We were also about 5 minutes by car from Third Avenue in La Cite-Limoilou, another neighborhood in Quebec featuring restaurants and old architecture. The major con of Auberge Amerik was our distance from the oldest, walled part of the city, meaning that we had to rely on our car and worry about paying for parking downtown. Still, since we had a car, this did not hinder our exploration of Quebec. One thing that we did not have time to take advantage of during our short weekend in Quebec City was the bike rental at Auberge Amerik. It is situated near multiple bike paths, and the hotel offers half and full-day bike rentals. We talked about renting bicycles and pedaling down to the Old Port along the St. Lawrence RIver, but we simply ran out of time during our visit. Brett and I both enjoyed visiting Quebec City, more so than our day-trip to Montreal. As I mentioned above, we enjoyed driving only 3.5 hours but feeling like we had entered a completely new place. There is much more to experience in the area - such as explore the quaint Ile d'Oleans, a mere 5 kilometers from Quebec City - but, for our quick weekend getaway, we stuck with the traditional Quebec City experiences. I was excited to have another opportunity to try out my rusty French, and we loved exploring this historic city, wandering through the twisted cobblestone streets at our leisure.
The main reason my friends and I planned a trip to Chilean Patagonia was to hike in Torres del Paine National Park, which I discussed in a previous blog post. However, after booking plane tickets to the southernmost tip of Chile, we asked the question, "What else is there to do?" A little internet research turned up the idea of staying at an estancia, a working ranch, and from there we stumbled across Estancia Cerro Guido. Getting ThereFrom Puerto Natales, we rented a car and drove to Estancia Cerro Guido. I think this is really the only option, since the estancia is pretty isolated. The EstanciaEstancia Cerro Guido had beautiful accommodations. We called the beds in the guesthouse "cloud beds", as they were topped with fluffy white comforters that you could sink right into. There was only wi-fi (intermittently) in the main building. I personally enjoyed this because it made it easier to actually disconnect from technology and slow down our pace. Instead of checking email, we read books, went for walks, and enjoyed the surroundings. The estancia is also a working ranch. One night at dinner, we watched a gaucho ride by, rounding up horses. The restaurant is incredible, since the ingredients come from the estancia's own gardens and livestock. Things to DoYou won't find attractions, museums, or shopping near Estancia Cerro Guido. Or even close by. Visiting an estancia is an opportunity to experience a taste of Patagonian life, get away from city life, and relax. Activities around Estancia Cerro Guido include:
The first day, we arrived, checked in, and explored. We met the pet sheep, walked around the garden and the guesthouse, and read for awhile before dinner. The next morning, we opted for a half-day horseback riding tour, an incredible experience as we rode across the open land with the Torres del Paine in sight. Horseback riding at Estancia Cerro Guido is an extra cost beyond the accommodations, and the tours can vary from 2 hours to a full day. The five of us were the only guests on our 4 hour tour, so we had ample opportunity to talk to our guides and we even got to see how fast our horses could go. (Spoiler: It was fast and fun.) That afternoon, we took a walk on the property, napped, and read some more. Some members of our group opted for another horseback ride the following morning before departure, while the rest of us enjoyed the breakfast buffet. Both nights of our stay, the five of us feasted on leisurely, multi-course dinners at the restaurant. How often do you actually sit down with friends and enjoy a dinner that lasts for hours, filled with fresh food and good conversation? I can tell you, I don't do it often enough. We sipped on pisco sour, a South American cocktail, while eating soup, fresh salad, slow-roasted meats, and fish. Also, the restaurant has a huge window that overlooks the Torres, so, as we dined, we got to watch the stunning mountains fade into a night sky. SummaryI would recommend Estancia Cerro Guido for people who love the outdoors and want to actually "get away from it all". People who need attractions to keep them busy or who prefer to stay indoors will likely be disappointed by the remote surroundings and slower pace of life. Yes, our stay was pricey, particularly for graduate students, but we decided that this would be our one splurge on the trip. The lunches and dinners are not included in the room rate (breakfast is included), and they are expensive at about $30 per meal. After hiking and camping for 5 days/4nights in Torres del Paine, it was a nice break. We had really saved money earlier in the trip by eating cheaply, camping, and staying in inexpensive hostels, so I felt like I could splurge on an experience that would be hard to find elsewhere.
I loved our stay at Estancia Cerro Guido. It's hard to say what was my favorite part - the fluffy "cloud beds", the fantastic restaurant with its fresh food, or the free feeling of galloping across wide open land on our horseback ride. While Brett and I were living in Vermont this summer, my mom flew out to visit us. She and I escaped for a girls' road trip to some of Vermont's small towns. My mom and dad had done two BikeVermont tours a number of years ago, and they had passed through Woodstock, so she suggested we return for a visit. We were able to immerse ourselves in all of Vermont's small-town charm, including covered bridges, country stores, beautiful scenery, and Maple cree-mees (aka soft serve ice cream). The Quechee Inn at Marshland FarmAfter perusing the various B&B options in and around Woodstock, my mom and I settled on The Quechee Inn at Marshland Farm. It is a historic home from 1793, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. It has been converted into an inn, restaurant, and wedding venue. I have to say, this would be a pretty picturesque place for a wedding. If you stay here, take a walk around the grounds to admire the big red barn, or head across the street to walk by Deweys Pond or the Ottauquechee River. The room we stayed in was comfortable enough, with a modern bathroom. I have read reviews of the inn that complained of their rooms being noisy, but we didn't get woken up by noise. Our room was on the second floor, on the opposite end of the inn from the restaurant. We very much enjoyed the included breakfast, which was complete with eggs, bacon, fruit, yogurt, juice, coffee, and more. There is a cozy sitting area with a fireplace on the first floor, and, on the second floor, a big covered balcony with rocking chairs overlooking the garden and parking lot. Driving to Woodstock from the inn took us about 15 minutes, while Quechee Gorge and Simon Pearce Glass-Blowing were each less than 5 minutes by car. The Quechee Inn at Marshland Farm was a great place to stay for a visit to the area if you want to capture some of Vermont's small town charm, since the building is over 200 years old and surrounded by Vermont's beautiful countryside. Woodstock, VTThe first day that we arrived, Mom and I went to the adorable town of Woodstock, Vermont. We wandered through the various shops in the town, including a charming bookshop, a vintage store, and a general store. The village is quaint, filled with old buildings and local shops. The town is a pleasant place to spend half a day, go shopping, and get a feel for small-town Vermont. When you take into account the surrounding towns and natural areas, there is plenty to keep you occupied for a weekend. My personal favorite stop in Woodstock was the general store, which, like general stores from long ago, carried a little bit of everything. Quechee GorgeThe Quechee Gorge, located in Quechee State Park, is a great half-day trip for nature lovers. It's the deepest gorge in Vermont and is billed as "Vermont's Grand Canyon." I can't lie: Mom and I thought that the Grand Canyon analogy was a bit of a stretch. That's a hefty comparison for any gorge to live up to. However, the Quechee Gorge was beautiful! We spent the morning hiking from the Visitor's Center along the length of the gorge. On one end, we balanced on rocks in the river, looking back at the bridge and gorge from below. At the other end, we watched water cascade from the Ottauquechee Dam before hiking back up to the Visitor's Center and out onto the bridge overlooking the gorge. Vermont is filled with natural beauty, so no trip to the state would be complete without experiencing Vermont's scenery. Sugarbush FarmSince we were in Vermont, we wanted to see a maple syrup farm, so Mom and I headed to Sugarbush Farm. It is a family owned, working farm that produces maple syrup and cheeses. We dove right in by sampling a variety of cheeses and all four grades of maple syrup, from light to dark, before purchasing some goodies from the farm store. The maple syrup is so good that it's hard to avoid making a purchase at the store. From there, we wandered down to the barn, where we could see the maple sugaring equipment, a short video, and simple displays about making maple syrup. Unfortunately, since we visited out of season, we couldn't see the equipment working. Finally, we headed up to the forest, where we could see how they tap the maple trees to gather the sap. In the forest, we also explored the little farm chapel, pictured above. Simon Pearce GlassblowingVisiting the Simon Pearce Glassblowing Studio was one of my favorite activities in the Woodstock/Quechee area. The studio produces beautiful hand-blown glass pieces, and visitors can watch the glassblowers at work. I was entirely unprepared for how fascinating it would be to watch the glassblowers heat up the glass, blow it, shape it, and add on pieces to make wine glasses, vases, goblets, and more. While they're working, the craftsmen invite visitors to ask questions. I was amazed to see how each piece of a wine glass is shaped and pieced together to make a whole. Additionally, right next to the glassblowing studio is one of Vermont's famous covered bridges, overlooking the falls of the Ottauquechee River. Country StoresIt seems that every small town in Vermont has its own country store, and many of them have been around for a long time. The Tunbridge Store, pictured above, was originally established in 1830. We stopped in at least three general stores/country stores on our girls' weekend. They are great places to grab a snack or pick up a souvenir. I purchased some postcards of Vermont to send to family and friends. Driving Country RoadsSimply driving from town to town in Vermont is a magical experience. The roads wind through the hills and mountains, past colorful farm houses and through forests of dark green trees. You'll drive by simple churches and old cemeteries, maybe stopping in one of the country stores for a quick break. A road trip in Vermont is truly something special. On our road trip, my mom and I stopped in the town of Tunbridge, by this cemetery and church, because our family had ancestors that lived in Vermont and are supposedly buried in Tunbridge. We never found their graves, but we did admire the view from the cemetery, stumble across a town meeting house, and learn that Tunbridge is home to the "Tunbridge World's Fair". MontpelierMontpelier is the smallest capital city in the United States, with a population around 8,000 people. On our way back to Burlington, we stopped in Montpelier for lunch, and I admit that I was pleasantly surprised by the town. I guess I figured that a capital city with such a small population wouldn't have much going on. The city was small and easily-walkable. We ate lunch at The Skinny Pancake, a restaurant that I love from Burlington. We also walked around Bear Pond Books, an independent bookstore, and took a quick tour of the Vermont State House, the gold-domed capital building. I discovered that the New England Culinary Institute has a campus in Montpelier, as well as a bakery that they operate. With more time, we might have visited Three Penny Taproom, which is an award-winning craft beer bar that my husband had been wanting to try. Though I came in with few expectations, I left Montpelier wanting to come back in the future for another visit. Where is Quechee? |
AuthorMy name is Alyssa Good and I have a passion for travel, adventure, culture, and new experiences! I focus on budget friendly travel, trip planning resources, and seeking out new experiences. Archives
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